White: Mas Grand Plagniol Blanc Tradition 2007

In the past, we have bought several wines from Cyril Mares, who is arguably the leading producer in the large appellation west of the Rhone called the Costieres de Nimes. The reliable summer sunshine and pockets of rock-covered soil have always lent themselves well to the production of rich, spicy and velvety red wines in this increasingly well-regarded area. A much greater challenge is to harness all that potential for ripeness to make white wines that remain aromatic and refreshing. Cyril has been winning this challenge with increasing authority for several years now.

There was a time when the estate's white wine was reserved for use at home, and sales to local customers “en vrac” was pumped out of the tank into large plastic containers like gas at the filling station. But once the remarkable quality of this wine became apparent to the importer, this exemplary Rhone white was saved from such an undignified fate. Of course, the varietals from which the wine is made - Grenache Blanc (55%), Roussanne (40%) and Viognier (5%) - are historically proven to be well suited to the climate. But the heady floral scents that Cyril conjures from them, and the lively sense of vivifying acidity, lift this wine above the crowd. There is something almost miraculous about the combination of body, brightness, succulence and flavor that this wine sports. There may be more "important" white wines made in Hermitage and Chateauneuf du Pape, but it is hard to imagine a Rhone white that delivers more sheer pleasure, especially at this modest price. Very little of it is made each year, so jump on it!