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Wine of the Month: March 2004

The descriptions found below are the ones you will find with your monthly shipment of two bottles of fine wine from the French Wine Club.


Red: Côte Chalonnaise 1999

In the seven years since the French Wine Club was started, it is only the second time that we have been able to offer a Red Burgundy as wine of the month. The reason for that is the price. The Burgundy region harvest is small, and producers try to get as much money as they can for their wines. The Côte Chalonnaise is also known as the Mercurey region. It is located at the lower end of Burgundy.

Brothers Maxime and Lionel Venot operate a very small winery in Moroges. They are obsessed with upgrading the quality of the downtrodden “image” of Pinot Noir wines from this overlooked region.

If the 1999 vintage is any indication, they have succeeded. Struck by an unusually potent color (for Pinot Noir) and an intense “Pinotée” nose, reminiscent of sandalwood, iris, mushroom, and strawberry, one cannot but be seduced by the complex aromatics. A full flavor profile follows with blackcurrant and spicy notes. Medium-bodied and quite lush, it nevertheless retains its Pinot Noir mystique, and does not succumb to the “new world” flaccid, jammy style of candied fruit and lack of terroir or complexity.

Very low yields, manual harvest, long fermentations, extra pruning in the vineyards are all quality factors which conspire to produce this little gem of an affordable Red Burgundy. It is ready to drink with a Beef Bourguignon, a coq-au-vin, or just to enjoy with ripe, runny, earthy cheeses.

To order, click here: Bottle ($14.75), Case ($159.30).


White: Domaine Schlumberger - Pinot Blanc 2002

With a single holding of more than 330 acres in Guebwiller, Domaine Schlumberger is the largest Grands Crus producer in Alsace. All Schumberger wines are estate grown. Seventy five percent of the vines are planted on very steep, terraced slopes, requiring horses to be used for fieldwork. the outstanding quality of the wines is due largely to Schlumberger's superieur vineyards, but also because yields are deliberately kept low. The winery produces only 80.000 cases annually, while the law allows for up to 160.000.

Domaine Schlumberger wines are fermented in old wood tuns, and then transferred to stainless steel tanks where they are kept for 12-18 months. After bottling, the wines are aged four to six months before being sold. Because Schlumberger tends to release its vintage late, the wines are able to reach full potential before going to market.

The Pinot Blanc, a grape that originated in northern italy, dates back to the 16th century. Although very old, it has become popular only in the last few years. Two types of Pinot Blanc are used (a 50/50 blend of Pinot d'Alsace and Pinot Auxerrois). The Pinot d'Alsace gives the wine its structure and acidity, while the Pinot Auxerrois provides the delicate fruit.

The 2002 vintage has a fine balance, a dry and fresh mouth feel with very pleasant and fine fruitiness. The wine will perfectly match dishes normally accompanied by white wine, especially patés, salads, pastries, and fish with sauce.

To order, click here: Bottle ($14.75), Case ($159.30).

Previous Wine of the Month Selections:

February 2004:
Red: Château la Bastide, Cabardes, 1999
White: Domaine de Rieux 2002

January 2004:
Red: Julienas 2001
White: Domaine de Molines 1999, Vin de Pays du Gard

December 2003:
Red: Château Castegens, Côtes de Castillon 1998
White: Domaine de Molines 1999, Vin de Pays du Gard

November 2003:
Red: Moulin d'Eole Costières de Nîmes 2001 (Languedoc-Roussillon)
White: Vouvray 1999, Domaine du Clos de l’Epinay, Cuvée Marcus (Loire Valley)

October 2003:
Red: Domaine du Vieux Chêne, Cuvée des Capucines, Côtes du Rhone 2001
White: Ile La Forge, Viognier 2002, Languedoc-Roussillon

September 2003:
Red: Château Reysson 1998, Cru Bourgeois Haut-Médoc
White: Château les Tuileries 2002


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